In the pink

Friday, October 1st, 2010

The sky was blue, the thermometer hovered around 27 degrees, kids splashed around in the pool and there was an impromptu game of backyard cricket. The occasion was a Sunday lunch for friends and family in Johannesburg. To feed the hordes there were platters of roast sirloin, cold chicken, sliced tongue drizzled with pesto and caper berries, potato gratin, huge mixed green salads, roasted garlic bulbs, new season asparagus with lemon butter… and of course strawberries and cream and ice-cream with Bar One sauce for dessert.

And looking down the table set for 30, there was a delicious irony in receiving a Decanter.com news alert about the latest sales figures for rosé in the United Kingdom tailing off – because at least 16 wine glasses filled with the pink stuff!

There were other beverages on offer: cold beer and hot South African weekends go hand-in-hand and the lunch had already kicked off with a round of gin and tonics. But it was interesting to see Sauvignon Blanc spurned in favour of the Goats do Roam rosé. And the reason was obvious – it was dry and really pleasant to drink. Whether any of the many folks consuming it with gusto gave a toss about its intriguing blend of 40% Syrah, 31% Grenache, 17% Gamay Noir and 12% Mourvèdre I don’t know, but it certainly intrigued me. I mean, hardly any even uses Gamay Noir nowadays! It’s a deeply unfashionable grape but it sure as heck makes a contribution to the GDR rosé.

There are a few reasons for the UK sales figures dipping. Firstly, they didn’t exactly have the greatest summer (do they ever?), with the economic recession still a factor fewer overseas trips to the Costa Brava or Portugal were enjoyed in favour of local hols in Cornwall or Devon with fish, chips and mushy peas on the menu and less disposable income available for things like wine, also as a result of the recession.

But the good weather is here to stay in SA – and rosé is no longer seen as sweet and nasty or a naff drink. It’s ideally suited to our climate and, increasingly, to our lifestyle so I’m sure producers will see South African figures defy the UK trend.